Contino, Graciano 2016<\/b><\/p>\n
The rise of Rioja\u2019s \u2018other\u2019 red grape varieties<\/p>\n
That Rioja is synonymous with Tempranillo in many wine drinkers\u2019 minds is only to be expected. Almost 80% (or 35,360ha, according to the latest figures from the Rioja consejo) of the region\u2019s total vineyard \u2013 and 86% of its red production \u2013 is taken up by the variety. For the most part, the region\u2019s other red grape varieties are relegated to bit-part players, with 5% here, or 10% there in various Tempranillo-led blends.<\/p>\n
That those \u2018other\u2019 red varieties are capable of rather more than providing colour and dark fruit (Graciano) or fleshy mid-palate succulence (Garnacha) or tannic depth and structure (Mazuelo) has, however, become increasingly apparent as more winemakers give each variety a starring, solo role.<\/p>\n
The most successful so far, in terms of both the quality of the wines and their reception by wine drinkers, has been Rioja\u2019s second most widely planted red variety, Garnacha \u2013 as Amaya Cervera explains. Mazuelo (number three with 855ha) has also had its moments, notably in the powerful but superbly expressive version produced in good vintages by the late Miguel Merino.<\/p>\n
But it\u2019s Graciano, currently the region\u2019s fourth most-planted red variety (with 841ha) \u2013 and a grape rarely found outside Rioja \u2013 that has the most potential to surprise. It\u2019s a variety that requires care and, ideally, limestone soils, night-time coolness and a long growing season if it is to reach full ripeness and prevent its attributes \u2013 vivid, inky colour, ample tannin and dark curranty fruit \u2013 from tipping over into something uncomfortably intense and overblown.<\/p>\n
When that sweet spot of ripeness is achieved, as it generally is in the bottling made by Contino from the estate\u2019s 3.7ha San Gregorio Grande vineyard (as well as in wines from Montecillo and Dominio de Queir\u00f3n, among others), then that dark, almost crunchy quality adapts beautifully to the kind of careful oak ageing at which Rioja\u2019s winemakers are so adept. For the Contino, that means an alcoholic fermentation in 100hl oak vats followed by 16 months in new oak barrels (72% French, 28% American), before a six-month stay in concrete tanks.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Contino, Graciano 2016 The rise of Rioja\u2019s \u2018other\u2019 red grape varieties That Rioja is synonymous with Tempranillo in many wine drinkers\u2019 minds is only to be expected. Almost 80% (or 35,360ha, according to the latest figures from the Rioja consejo) of the region\u2019s total vineyard \u2013 and 86% of its red production \u2013 is taken […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":4123,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4122","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-wines"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n